Moving LEGO Modular Buildings & CONFLICTED! Room Rebuild Part 13

50 Comments

1. Yeah! MrBookieBoo. I would love to see you make large mountains similar to his ones, eventually… 😇

2. You could use a full baseplate for your rock wall as the unused part of the baseplate would just be under the platform (no need for cutting baseplates).

3. Hot glue the corners

4. This looks way better instead in one spot I love it it feels like I’m in a real city

5. Lots of thinking to do. I really like the way the modular buildings look, and the train track I think would look the best would be the L gage train track. Their easy to move, look great, and their much more detailed and look way better. But very part intensive. Its truly up to you. And I have suggestion: If you were to cover underneath the platforms you could maybe build a bunch of facades to cover it up.

6. Make a railroad crossing were the

7. Mr bookie boo is a great inspiration

8. Looking good!!
   RobinHoodBricks has a system of jumpers and tiles to tack down his track corners at the same height as yours. I’ve tried it; works well

9. Need to do a mural on the walls behind the city. So it looks like sky and clouds and make it more realistic looking

10. Hey bud it’s Mark! Everyday viewer and Lego seller and builder! Don’t cut your legos or Baseplates in half! You can find another way! One day your gonna want or need those Base Plates for a different build or to resell them! I’ve been there trust me! Don’t cut legos! Lol! Your city is looking amazing so far 😍

11. why not build a road in the 16 studs on the shelf with a guard rail along the rock face with some parts covered in bushes. Perhaps an old road or walk way path that takes people from the shelf to the table

12. I think not keeping buildings with the same colors is better because it breaks it up and doesn’t look like the buildings are connected. But it ur city so do what u think is best. I just was stating my opinion

    Ps looking great 👍

13. You can build a rock or foliage facade to hide the height difference between MILS and the L Guage railroad. Building using l Guage and then covering up the ballast with green 4×4 plates is just a waste of parts. You lose the beauty of the ballast.

14. Wow

15. I use road plates connected at the 16th stud on my baseplate to cut them in half with a razor, they split perfectly. Way better than buying halves

16. couldn’t you tack down the corners by putting bricks on top of the rail ballast – basically holding it down rathe than under pinning

17. Why do you have solve everything right now . Isn’t it ok to leave part of the city unfinished for all the other sets coming out in the future.

18. Maybe you should start building actually and not rearrange every other episode

19. Hey Bricksie, G’day from Australia. I was thinking that a tram might be good up on the platform within the cobblestones to help the figures carry groceries and maybe an elevator down to an underground carpark under the platform. Just a couple thoughts mate. Cheers Dean

20. Hey Mr Jordan I have a question for you, will you be getting the new lego city powered up trains when they come out ?

21. Definitely build the station in the tunnel near where you plan to have the interchange for the different trains. You could then put a clear facade to see in behind some buildings.

22. Hmm. Hard decisions to make. But it’s a ever evolving city.

23. You have some great ideas. Looking forward to new updates. Great vlog.

24. I vote current train track. I really like how it blends in with the road. Saving a lot of time & parts would be a nice bonus.

25. Pretty cool!Wow!!

26. Your city needs a sky wallpaper think it would really make it come together

27. Are your train tracks different than the new ones? I can’t figure out how you made them look like that, my ties are wider

28. who said you have to tack underneath the curve tracks? why not put stud beside every available spot next to the curve tracks

29. You should make a railroad crossing were the train goes through the road

30. Dont do a cliff along the whole back of the city. Do one level houses for the top that continue all the way to the ground level

31. Imagine if you could shrink to the size of a lego person to walk around the lego city?
    I think it’d be cool.

32. hear me out. for the 16 stud walkway up top you should do a normal cobblestone walkway like you were saying but for the rest of the last 6 is stud you should do a small creek the falls into the ninjago city

33. How about a man made channel like in Europe, And it could feed water into the water side of the Lego city. Love the content.

34. If u want to elevate the track, for the roads elevate them a bit, near of the road and then do a crossing point

35. I think in terms of getting rid of your confusion is maybe make that transtation under the platform idea ? I’m really curious of what you have in your minds eye for it, and where the station walkways would connect with the road or even the lower level modulars ?

36. Always looking good.

37. use the mils plate, you can lower the tracks into the middle of the mils plate, like a stream

38. OMG!
    You can talk

39. Hi Bricksie are you doing to get the new lego city passanger train?? It has working lights which would look epic when going under the platform tunnel

40. The road should be 1 plate lower than the track, like the l gauge. You should use ramps to make up the difference in height. It is more realistic

41. Wow interesting 😲✌️ Lego city wahhh kids dreams yeahhh😎😊🙈😁😉👍 fans Lego like this yeayyyy 🙈😊😁✌️

42. Watching this on May 4th so Happy Star Wars Day everyone!!! Enjoyed the video Jordan, lots to think about – train tracks level with road height is good because the plate height differences can be hidden with slopes, vegetation and fences; 6:10 stud split on raised platform would be good to allow for facades plus moving ‘murps’ forward slightly is a good idea; I know the amount of bricks would be extreme but how about bricking the wall above the proposed facades to look like sky and clouds (like on the NES screen but better!)?! Sorry to put that idea in your head! 🤣🤣

43. Where you have open space along the back wall, do construction sites or advertisements for property for sale. That way, it isn’t blank but is immediately ready for new buildings when you get them.

44. A cool idea for the empty lots awaiting buildings would be construction zones. City’s always have construction crews and cranes around.

45. The Dollar Tree in the US sells baseplates for $1.25. Cheaper option if you are cutting them in half. They are available on the website.

46. you could use part 15068 to help the transitions on the sidewalks too the rails

47. You do you for the train plates. However, when I drive over a train track it does pop up a bit. I understand you wanting to make it look smooth through there, but it’s either extra parts bought for lifting the train plates, or extra parts bought for trying to hide it with the rock wall. But you could use your current rail under the cliff, since it will be hidden it doesn’t need to look that good. Yes it is a plate height difference, but it might be do able for the dip if it’s hidden.

48. Facades is a great idea for adding height and depth. Plus it would cover up the bare wall.

49. Go with L gage standard. 99% of train crossings in the real world are raised above the road anyway. So having it slightly raised would be more realistic.

50. If you are not putting roads for cars in front of the modulars on the top shelf, I think a smaller walkway in front and facades in the back will look very good. Maybe a little mountain somewhere if you can get it to fit in, but if you will build rocks all the way in the font of the ledge then it could be too much mountains (Mr Bookieboo has pulled it off so I am sure you could too if you wanted to go for that solution).